HERRING (genus Clupea, with four species found in the Baltic and North Seas) have been vital to northern Europe’s economy since the Middle Ages, when fishermen worked out how to preserve them in brine. Every north European country maintains that there is a right way to eat the fish, but they differ as to what it is.

HERRING (genus Clupea, with four species found in the Baltic and North Seas) have been vital to northern Europe’s economy since the Middle Ages, when fishermen worked out how to preserve them in brine. Every north European country maintains that there is a right way to eat the fish, but they differ as to what it is.